The survey

We were advised when buying a barge to have a survey done. This entails lifting the barge out of the water, pressure cleaning the hull and for a professional marine surveyor to conduct a thorough investigation of the boat and its systems. An important part of the survey entails a sonar scan of the hull to determine whether the thickness of the steel is adequate, a minimum of 4mm is required for insurance purposes. As a condition of my offer I included the undertaking of such a survey and Rudi and I concluded it would be a good idea if I could fly out to Zaandam to be on site when the boat was out of the water, to see the survey being done and to discuss any issue that may arise with the surveyor.

I flew out in August 2009 for a long weekend and thoroughly enjoyed the perspective of the boat out of the water. It gave me the opportunity of making all the possible notes and measurements and to patch up a few bare spots with black hull paint. I was captain of my ship and master of the ocean, albeit on dry land. I recall sitting on the boat smoking a Havana cigar and really being chuffed as pie, watching all the Dutch boats passing by.

  

Original galley, now removed

However, a survey is not for the faint hearted and remains quite costly. The lifting out of the water cost 700 Euros and the survey another approximately 600. Fortunately, Colin South, the British surveyor I had engaged, was satisfied with the hull and most of the systems and the issues to be rectified were essentially the repacement of the sacrificial anodes that have to be welded to the hull and a few lesser issues, such as ensuring the chimney of the diesel heater we had on board did not send the boat up in flames the next time we lit it. It had been leaking diesel and we needed little encouragement to correct this.  

Salon, with traditional slatted wall cladding

During the weekend, Goos invited me to join him, and two other couples for a cruise of Amsterdam by night and we had a most incredible evening, seeing the sights of Amsterdam from the canals. Goos grew up in Amsterdam and knows all the twists and turns in the canal system.

Before I flew back to South Africa after the survey I asked whether we could sail the boat back to the Dukra marina and Goos arranged this. What a pleasure sailng past the molen on the Zaan in our own boat!

Next phase: Planning the renovation

The Idea

Wishlist in our kitchen




When in 2008 we first thought of our impending retirement we decided to brainstorm and up went a whiteboard in the kitchen upon which either us could post any idea we wished for without criticism or amendment by the other. We agreed a further rule that we would only remove an idea upon consensus. My first contributions were to sail the Mediterranean for a year or rent an apartment for six months in the Southern toe of Italy and traipse across the countryside on two Vespa scooters.

Following various discussions with friends, and in particular David Willers in London, the idea of Dutch barge was mooted. David has had sailboats, escaped from dangerous places in them and suggested that mooring fees in the Mediterranean were now crippling, "what about a barge on the canals of Europe?", he said, "with a little wood-burning stove and an axe you could traverse all of Europe and keep warm in the process".

So gesê, so gedaan. We scoured the Internet and became enthralled with the idea and amazed at the variety of barges available. In June 2009 I had to visit Geneva for a WTO meeting and we decided to stop over in Amsterdam to look over in person what had excited us on the Internet. We stayed on a barge with our dear friend from Geneva, Sarah Bulloch, and made few phone calls to various brokers. One in particular, Mr Goos Kramer, the giant marina owner of Dukra Jachthaven in Zaandam, who had been recommended to us by email, was quick to respond to our request and invited us out to the marina. We took the train to Zaandam and spent a wonderful morning with Goos who showed us the various types of boats he had available. Although none were to our particular liking, I said to him "we do not intend to buy today as I have two years to retirement, but I have a sense that I will be doing business with you sometime". A man of the sea, honest and true to his word. This was borne out later in my dealings with him on the purchase of the boat.

After a lovely chat and coffee in the Dukra canteen Goos offered to take us back to Amsterdam to our lodgings and on the way to look at one new boat he had received in that morning. Well, upon seeing "Linquenda" both Rudi and I decided that she was what we were looking for and that we should not wait until I had retired before making an offer. This was a project boat which had sufficient interior appointments to acommodate us comfortably while we renovated her. The price was right and we could afford to have her moored for a year or so before I retired rather than wait until then. She had a serviceable engine, kitchen, bedroom and various other appointments and a very traditional interior that we just loved and wished to retain during any renovation.

"Linquenda", Skutsje Tjalk, 1914

I asked Goos to hold the boat for me until I could review my finances and made an offer which concluded the sale after our return to South Africa. The cost of the boat, mooring and what we expected to put into her by way of renovation was less than the alternative plan of buying a holiday home in Franskraal or Hermanus! Also we expected to be able to put in sweat capital and excellent electrical, water and heating systems that would make the ship saleable at least without loss and probably a profit after a two year project lifetime. What better way of spending our retirement lump sum!